Mount Whitney Trip Report

Why Did We Have Our Hearts Set on Mount Whitney?

Summiting Mount Whitney is on many people’s bucket list.  At just over 14,500 ft, it is the tallest mountain in the contiguous (lower 48) United States.  The fact that the trail is maintained all the way to the summit means that for most of the summer it does not require any advanced mountaineering skills to bag this peak.  Which made it a perfect 14er for Anna and me to check off as a newly minted married couple.

However, its popularity means that getting permits was going to be an opportunity to grow my patience. I also had to explain to my new bride that she was going to have to do her business in a “wag bag” (leave no trace is serious business in the Whitney region) with only the tiniest bit of privacy.  Sometimes we hike to find solitude, but this was not going to be that kind of trip.

I have hiked Whitney a couple of times, but this was Anna’s first.  I have done the single-day death march up the main trail and the more technical mountaineer’s route. But honestly, the best way to experience Whitney is by doing a low-stress overnight trip up the main trail.  So that’s what Anna and I did back in September.

Every Great Adventure Starts With a Single Step Out Your Own Front Door …

We stuffed all of our gear into our packs (basic packing list included at the bottom), threw them in the Jeep, and headed up to Lone Pine on a Friday morning.  

Unfortunately, we did not have permits reserved because we hadn’t put our names in the lottery way back in February (link to lottery site). We were busy getting married in March, so needless to say we had other things on our minds.  But that also meant that we were going to be at the mercy of the morning lottery for unclaimed permits.

I had a good feeling that this new bride of mine was going to be my lucky charm though. As it turns out she was, and I drew the 7 from the hat. We were pretty close to the front of the line.  When we got to the counter there were three permits left, and we only needed two, so we scored!

Now, that we had our permits, our legs had to cash the checks that our hearts had written and get us to the top of the mountain.  And since we had to get our permits in the morning lottery, we were getting a less than ideal late start. After scouring the Jeep for anything that could look or smell appetizing to Yogi the inquisitive and ingenious bear, we hustled our butts to the trailhead for an 11:00 AM start.

The “What Have We Done” Moment …

The first mile of any backpacking trip is always the worst, or is it the last mile? I always forget … okay, they both are pretty terrible but moving on.  It was pretty warm so we took our time getting our legs under us and getting used to the weight of our packs. We stopped for a quick lunch of some dates, jerky, and some dried beets (don’t knock it till you try it) after about an hour and a half on the trail.  The Whitney trail climbs quickly out of the portal and gives you some pretty great views of the Owens Valley and Lone Pine below.

Just after lunch, we had to stop again and tape up our feet.  We had done Baxter Pass a couple of weeks before and our feet were still a little tender. In spite of our wimpy feet, we made pretty good time and were above Lone Pine Lake (the turn around point for people without permits) before we knew it.

The Halfway Mark of Day One!

The next landmark on our journey was Outpost Camp, which is a popular place for many overnight hikers. It’s only about the halfway point for us on day 1. There were a couple of groups hanging out, and we were a little jealous of one group’s hammocks. I got significantly less jealous when I was reminded that the Sierras are notorious for mosquitos pretty much anywhere below the tree line.  Lucky for us we had our bug repellent #winning.

Heading up out of Outpost camp, our next big goal is to make to Trail Camp before sunset.  We were both getting pretty tired and our heavy overnight packs weighted us down. The other thing that started to hit me was a slight case of altitude sickness.  Fortunately for me, this was not my first foray above the timberline. A little ginger candy works miracles for my upset stomach.

This poor lady in a group that came along while we were grabbing a quick rest was not so fortunate.  She threw up more than I thought humanly possible, and it just kept coming. Her friends wisely decided to take her back down to a lower elevation for the night. It seemed to work like a charm because we saw them on their way to the summit in the morning.

Getting Settled Into Our Home For the Night …

We got into Trail Camp about an hour before sunset, giving us plenty of time to find the perfect campsite.  We found a spot a little above the tent city, and it afforded us a nice view and a little privacy.

Once we got settled in we pumped water for the first time on this trip.  The water in the Sierras is mostly snowmelt, but it can have some nasty parasites like giardia in it. So we always purify our water. I prefer mechanical pumps because they are fast and don’t make the water taste terrible like the tablets. A little extra weight and work for water that tastes clean and fresh.

With our water supply replenished we set to cooking our dinner.  Anna and I typically mix up our own freeze-dried dinners. Look for some recipes in future blogs.  Suffice to say we think they taste pretty good and it allows us to control the ingredients.  And to be honest they aren’t that hard to make yourself.

With our bellies full, our legs weary, and our eyes heavy we called it a night just after sunset.  There is something odd that happens to you in the mountains that resets your sleep cycle. I find that I am ready for bed just after sunset and I’m up and ready for the day just before sunrise.  It’s like there is magic in that mountain air.

Today is the Day We Get Our Mountain …

The next morning after a quick breakfast of oatmeal with freeze-dried fruit, and coffee, we were ready for our summit push.  We were much lighter today because we only had our day packs with a little food, water, and warm layers. The lighter pack felt amazing!

The first thing that stands in the way of our goal is the 99 (or so, I always lose count) switchbacks that get you from 12,000 ft at trail camp, to 13,500 ft at Trail Crest. The top of Trail Crest is where you really start to feel the altitude. It’s also where you really start to reap the benefits of your labor.  Looking west from the top you get some pretty breathtaking views of Kings Canyon National Park.

After taking in the views and grabbing a quick snack, Anna and I had to get a move on because as hot as it was the first day at the portal it was downright cold here at Trail Crest.  As you hike along to the North you eventually come to where the Whitney, High Sierra, and John Muir trails merge on their way to the summit. It’s funny because you always see what look like abandoned packs along the trail.  Don’t worry there are no man-eating yetis up here, it’s just that nobody wants to carry a full overnight pack to the summit.

That Moment When You See the Hut!

Eventually, our goal was in sight.  We could see the hut on the summit off in the distance. It gave me a jolt of adrenaline, which I think kind of annoyed my poor wife (I can be a bit overzealous and effusive with my encouragement when I get excited).  Once we got to the top we signed the obligatory summit log and set out to get our hero shots and some lunch.

After spending about an hour on the summit, we set out for the long slog back down.  And the old adage that “the top is only halfway” starts to resonate in my ears. But with such iconic views like of Guitar lake, nothing gonna steal my joy.

That Was Great But How Far Are We From the Jeep?

Anna and I made really good time getting back to our campsite. As is always the case, our spirits and mood were buoyed by having made our summit. After a short snack, we broke camp and headed back down to the portal. Dinner at the Lone Pine Smokehouse was calling to us like Odysseus’ sirens, we would probably regret it just as much, but it tastes soooo good after a weekend on the mountain. We figured a cheat meal was in order.

The hike back to the car was pretty uneventful, albeit long.  Remember when I said the first mile is the worst, I was wrong, the last mile (which seems closer to 3 miles) is the worst.  But the elation you feel when you get back to the car, get that infernal anchor of a pack off your shoulders, and get some soft tennis shoes back on you feed the pain of the miles melts away and the thrill of the accomplishment dominates your thoughts.  Like most trips to the mountains, it was a good one, and we returned richer for having been blessed to be there.

Planning your own trip?  Here are some useful links, and a list of the gear that Anna and I took with us.  Let us know how your trip goes and if you have any questions contact us.

Helpful Links:

• To get into the permit lottery open Feb-March.
• Useful info from the US Forest Service

Basic Gear List:

• Bear Can (no you can’t just hang your food, these bears have Ph.D.’s in getting to your food)
• Water Treatment (recommend the mechanical filters)
• Bug Spray (recommend Lemon and Eucalyptus)
• Something for bug bites (recommend Lavender oil, but it will attract more bugs so beware)
• Sunscreen
• Blister treatment (duct tape works pretty well)
• Something for altitude sickness (recommend ginger and peppermint, but you may want to have some Excedrin on hand just in case)
• Bad weather gear (rain jackets and such, the weather can come up fast on the mountain and it gets colder as you go higher)
• Headlamp
• Food including snacks for the trail
• Tent
• Sleeping bag
• Sleeping pad
• Camp kitchen stuff (stove, mugs, spoons, etc.)

Potentially Useful Essential Oils:

• Lemon and Eucalyptus (bug repellent)
• Cedarwood (bug repellent)
• Ginger (anti-nausea and headache)
• Peppermint (anti-nausea and headache)
• Melaleuca (disinfectant for cuts)
• Lavender (itches or rashes)